Day 8
Friday March 19
We had read the phrase “Céad Míle Fáilte,” and knew it meant “welcome,” but I was delighted when I saw a sign that told us how to pronounce it and that it actually means “one hundred thousand welcomes.”
Our day begins in Kinsale, where we had spent the night. A decisive battle was fought here in 1601 – aptly known as the “Battle of Kinsale.” This was but one of many battles with the British over control of Ireland, but this loss marked the end of the old Gaelic order. The subtext of most of this struggle was also Catholic (Irish) versus Protestant (England). But we’ll leave all of that for a different kind of blog!
Anyway, back to our tour --- before leaving Kinsale we visited Charles Fort – a star-shaped fort erected after the famous battle.
We head next to Cork (pop. just under 200,000), the 3rd largest city in Ireland/N. Ireland after Dublin and Belfast. We only have time for a brief stop, so Shane drops us off at the “English Market” [est. 1610] on St. Patrick’s Street, which was actually a waterway until 1800. It reminded me of Pike Place Market in Seattle. Shane had told us about some of the food the Irish enjoy – and it was all there, of course, including white and black pudding (which is not pudding as we know it, by any means!)
We head towards Waterford, but stop about half way there to have lunch in a pretty little town called Lismore. We discover a relatively new restaurant called O’Brien’s Chop House – great food, nice young owner named Justin. http://www.obrienchophouse.ie/
Walking around town, we spot a few humorous signs we couldn’t resist -
We head through the Knockmealdown Mts to the town of Cahir, where we see yet another castle (ABC, as Bob says!) and, a few miles further, a Swiss Cottage, of all things! This, we’re told is an example of a “cottage orné” – built for Lord and Lady Cahir in 1810.
Our destination for the evening is Cashel, site of the famous “Rock of Cashel, ” a cathedral/fortress dating back to the 12th century. The partially restored fortress is perched on a natural rock outcropping and has a commanding view over the Tipperary plain. There are some great examples of Celtic “high crosses” in the graveyard on the grounds here.
Our bed for the night is just around the corner, at a charming little B&B called Ladyswell House, which just happens to be owned and run by Kevin (our driver/guide for the first few days) and his wife Beatrice.
We enjoy a wonderful dinner at a unique restaurant right next door called Chez Hans. http://www.chezhans.net/. Originally a church, according to Shane, it was sold in 1960s Sold for only £250, and has been run by same family as a restaurant for past 45 years. Shane says it is the best restaurant outside of Dublin. [We neglected to take our cameras to dinner, but we want to share what it looks like, so I copied this from their web-site!]
No comments:
Post a Comment